Showing posts with label The. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The. Show all posts
Tuesday, 18 April 2017
Special Report What the heck is a perigean spring tide
(corrected text, because I was informed I didn't know what month it was! Thanks, Pat.)
They dropped this term on The Weather Channel this morning. Dang, we had to look that up! The moon has something to do with the tides, right? (Go ahead. Look it up. I'll wait.) During the full moon (twice a month), the tidal range is greater (or high tide is higher and low tide is lower)--that's called spring tide.
They dropped this term on The Weather Channel this morning. Dang, we had to look that up! The moon has something to do with the tides, right? (Go ahead. Look it up. I'll wait.) During the full moon (twice a month), the tidal range is greater (or high tide is higher and low tide is lower)--that's called spring tide.
When the moon is closest to the earth, it is called a lunar perigee. The gravitational pull of the moon is the strongest.
Three to four times a year, the lunar perigee and full moon coincide. This is the perigean spring tide (or unofficially, the supermoon or "king tide" in New Zealand) and can affect tides up to 20 percent (usually just a few inches). Apparently, we experienced this once in Annapolis--when it's perigean spring tide, wind blows onshore from the bay and it storms (barometric pressure drop), they get flooding downtown.
If you're still reading this, the next perigean spring tide in August 29th (this Sat), and it coincides with the possible arrival of Hurricane Erika on the Atlantic coast. Yikes. The Weather Channel specifically mentioned Charleston.
Here's more info:
NOAA perigean-spring-tide
http://earthsky.org/space/what-is-a-supermoon#how-many
Woods Hole Oceanographic: Perigean Spring Tides Aug 1998
Don't get me started on neap tides and apogees.
Historic Paddle Photo Island Home of the Penobscots Postcard
Here's an image of a circa 1905 postcard featuring a Penobscot guide confidently standing in his canoe...
Source: Ebay Link
paddle closeup
The Quick Canoe 155 a throw away boat
Thats one idea but I suspect you will fall in love with it and keep it forever!
Picture and text from the designers web site. We have the plans ready for you now, just pay to our Pay Pal
account at roy (at) www.com and we will send you a PDF of the plans by return.
QUICK CANOE 155 – A simple plywood canoe – Plans $30
Roy
The plywood “disposable” canoe (see here) has been renamed the more salubrious “Quick Canoe”. I quite liked the name of “Disposable Canoe” but I agreed with the critique that it hinted at something that was poor quality rather than simple and Easy. It could have been the EasyCanoe, but that name was already taken.
The photo below shows two a group of us built in France immediately before paddling and camping our way down the Loire River for a week.
It fills a gap that our classic Eureka plywood Canoe doesn’t cover. The Eureka is a pretty canoe that is easy to build and paddles very nicely. It builds quickly over a couple of weeks if you can work full time, but with the Quick Canoe we were thinking of something possible to whack together in a weekend.
The Quick Canoe series has been designed to be as easy to build as possible while keeping some of the qualities of a good paddling canoe – in particular the ability to track. It is not designed to be the BEST canoe, but the SIMPLEST plywood canoe that was FASTEST to build without being too bad on the water rather than going the best paddling canoe we could do as represented by the Eureka.
Picture and text from the designers web site. We have the plans ready for you now, just pay to our Pay Pal
account at roy (at) www.com and we will send you a PDF of the plans by return.
QUICK CANOE 155 – A simple plywood canoe – Plans $30
Roy
The plywood “disposable” canoe (see here) has been renamed the more salubrious “Quick Canoe”. I quite liked the name of “Disposable Canoe” but I agreed with the critique that it hinted at something that was poor quality rather than simple and Easy. It could have been the EasyCanoe, but that name was already taken.
The photo below shows two a group of us built in France immediately before paddling and camping our way down the Loire River for a week.
It fills a gap that our classic Eureka plywood Canoe doesn’t cover. The Eureka is a pretty canoe that is easy to build and paddles very nicely. It builds quickly over a couple of weeks if you can work full time, but with the Quick Canoe we were thinking of something possible to whack together in a weekend.
The Quick Canoe series has been designed to be as easy to build as possible while keeping some of the qualities of a good paddling canoe – in particular the ability to track. It is not designed to be the BEST canoe, but the SIMPLEST plywood canoe that was FASTEST to build without being too bad on the water rather than going the best paddling canoe we could do as represented by the Eureka.
Sunday, 16 April 2017
The lord commanded nephi to go and build a boat
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Saturday, 15 April 2017
The Boating School
The Boating School is pleased to introduce our new elective summer course schedule, and is now accepting registrations. These courses have been selected with the needs of modern boater in mind. The Boating School is dedicated to providing only the finest in boating educational instruction available anywhere.
Learn how to save money by downloading nautical charts from the internet. There is a wealth of chart material available at no cost for the savvy boater that knows where to look. There are many options including seafood restaurant place mats, Google earth photographs, and on the water hotel brochures. In addition to the internet there is also used book stores, and buying old charts on Ebay or Craigslist. Our instructors will teach you how to find, and separate the ones that are probably okay, from the ones that might not be. Save big money, and enroll now.
This is a 4 credit course. Classes meet Monday mornings for six weeks. Successful completion allows enrollment in our fall semester course, "Hacking navigation chart chips for fun and profit".
Dark or light? Which rum is right for your boat?
A well stock liquor cabinet on board is an indispensable item for your vessel. The skilled mixologists from the Boating School will teach you the basics of preparing nautical adult beverages starting with the historic "Grog" of times past, up to the more contemporary drinks such as the "Cosmo", and the "Dark and Stormy". Class work will also include proper usage of the 12 volt blender, popular hang over remedy recipes, and techniques for mixing cocktails in rough seas.
This is a 3 credits course. Classes meet off campus on Friday evenings at the Old Salty Bar and Grill.
This is a 3 credits course. Classes meet off campus on Friday evenings at the Old Salty Bar and Grill.
Dealing with the officious captain. (For women only).
This is an on board course that provides training in dealing with the "know it all bossy captain". The Boating School has retained the services of under employed amateur divorced captains to assist in this valuable hands on program. The Boating School's staff will instruct you in various captain management techniques including, feigning deafness, tying rope restraints, and if needed as a last resort, the ever popular "foot sweep take down maneuver".
This is a 4 credit course, and meets on Saturdays for 4 weeks. Prerequisites are "Taser usage 101", and "Nautical jargon basics". Limit of four per class.
Nautical jargon basics.
Knowing how to talk like a real boater will give you the confidence you need to show others that you too are indeed an experienced yachtsman. Whether down on the waterfront, or just having cocktails at the club, having a good grasp of nautical jargon will help you fit in. This is a round table discussion class, and you must be at least 21 to register.
This is a 1 credit course. Classes meet on Wednesday mornings for six weeks.
The Boating
School summer lecture series.
Nautical attire do's and don'ts. Friday March 15th 8:00pm in the auditorium.
Mr. Blackgood gives answers to those difficult boating fashion questions such as "What type of chain should I get for my Atocha coin?", "Which high heeled shoes are right for teak decks?", and "What should I wear for a Poker Run?"
Paper charts, do they really work? Saturday March 30st 8:00pm in the auditorium.
Renowned sailing captain Archibald Haddock debunks the myth that paper charts really work. Listen to this experienced navigator as he explains why these rune covered documents only serve to confuse the modern boater.
The Iphone, the modern boat compass replacement. Tuesday April 4th 8:00pm in the auditorium.
Apple's software engineers hold a panel discussion to discuss why the Iphone's technology has made the old inaccurate magnetic compass obsolete, when contrasted with the sophistication of the Iphone's battery powered hall effect compass sensor that can talk to you.
The Boating School 41.43.55N, 49.56.45W
Paper charts, do they really work? Saturday March 30st 8:00pm in the auditorium.
Renowned sailing captain Archibald Haddock debunks the myth that paper charts really work. Listen to this experienced navigator as he explains why these rune covered documents only serve to confuse the modern boater.
The Iphone, the modern boat compass replacement. Tuesday April 4th 8:00pm in the auditorium.
Apple's software engineers hold a panel discussion to discuss why the Iphone's technology has made the old inaccurate magnetic compass obsolete, when contrasted with the sophistication of the Iphone's battery powered hall effect compass sensor that can talk to you.
The Boating School 41.43.55N, 49.56.45W
Thursday, 13 April 2017
Building our Optimist kit in the USA
We recently sent three Optimist kits to a sailing school in America.
It looks like they are off to a very good start with reading our detailed builders manual!
Roy
It looks like they are off to a very good start with reading our detailed builders manual!
Roy
Monday, 10 April 2017
GEAR REVIEW Woody Handmade Knives The Drury Fillet Knife
It never fails that about the time that we get a few warms days and the dogwoods are in full bloom in the woods behind our house that the conversation of a bluegill fish fry comes up with my family. We don't keep many fish but never feel bad about holding back a few bluegills from the pond for a couple dinners each spring. That said however, my family is picky how they eat bluegill. They want them filleted with the skin off which can be kind of tricky without the right tools. Where some whole fry their bluegill, ours carefully cut off the bone and turned into small narrow fillets. Not much better eating than a few fillets with a dusting of flour after hot oil bath to crisp.
I've found the perfect knife in the Woody Handmade Knives Drury Fillet Knife which makes quick work out of a small cooler full of bluegills with precise cuts and the right size for working with small to medium sized fish.
The Drury was designed as the perfect bird or trout knife and measures eight inches in length. It is made of 1095 HCS steel with a Curly Maple handle. The leather sheath holds the knife securely and the quality of all this handy fillet knife far surpasses the price. If you're looking for a special fillet knife that has as sharp of an edge as how it looks, this is it. The Drury is a essential piece of kit for the gear bag, especially in the spring when we're focues on bluegills coming to the fly...or cricket.
Frank Bridwell of Woody Handmade Knives works out of a small shop in the upstate of South Carolina and has a long list of wonderfully made cutlery creations.
Visit the Woody Handmade Knives website for more information and to see more of Frank's work. Follow along the latest shop news on Instagram.
NOTICE - Read the comment below from Frank Bridwell. He has offered 20% off all Woody Handmade Knives through April 15th, 2017 with free shipping if you mention this blog post.
I've found the perfect knife in the Woody Handmade Knives Drury Fillet Knife which makes quick work out of a small cooler full of bluegills with precise cuts and the right size for working with small to medium sized fish.
The Drury was designed as the perfect bird or trout knife and measures eight inches in length. It is made of 1095 HCS steel with a Curly Maple handle. The leather sheath holds the knife securely and the quality of all this handy fillet knife far surpasses the price. If you're looking for a special fillet knife that has as sharp of an edge as how it looks, this is it. The Drury is a essential piece of kit for the gear bag, especially in the spring when we're focues on bluegills coming to the fly...or cricket.
Frank Bridwell of Woody Handmade Knives works out of a small shop in the upstate of South Carolina and has a long list of wonderfully made cutlery creations.
Visit the Woody Handmade Knives website for more information and to see more of Frank's work. Follow along the latest shop news on Instagram.
NOTICE - Read the comment below from Frank Bridwell. He has offered 20% off all Woody Handmade Knives through April 15th, 2017 with free shipping if you mention this blog post.
Boat sale observations the cast and crew
Being a shewed observer of human behavior I have noted some traits that seem to be common to most used boat sales. The first is that when people tell you it's not about the money, it's always about the money. The second one is the seller is going to lose money. It's all about the old tired joke" What are mixed emotions?" It's watching your mother in law driving your new car off a cliff.
Let's take a look at the participants involved in a typical boat sale. First there are the brokers. They come in two flavors. The first is the broker who will list your boat for what you think it's worth, and the second one tells you what it's really worth. Both types of brokers immediately start to salivate anticipating that sweet commission check soon to come.
The former gets more listings, but eventually has to lower the price, much to the owners abject chagrin. This often results in loss of the listing in the process. The later broker initially gets less listings, but in the end sells more boats.
Now for the sellers. They will most likely lose money, and the really unlucky ones will have to write a check. Sellers often have a resigned look on their face, and seem to have constant stomach pain. They also know what issues their boat really has. Most won't lie about them if very specifically asked, but they aren't going to bend over backward to bring them to a sellers attention.
The buyers on they other hand are already dreaming of that exotic trip while sipping beverages in coconut shells festooned with paper umbrellas. They are often seen clutching dogged eared West Marine catalogs. But much to the sellers dismay, in the process of negotiating a contract, the buyers are going to mercilessly beat that dead horse named "Selling Price" with a really big ugly stick.
Now for the marine surveyors. The prudent buyers are going to pay a professional to meticulously examine and probe every aspect of the vessel looking for anything that's less than perfect. Lack of perfection is not hard to find in a used boat. The results of the 25 page long survey are then cast into ingots, and used to add more heft to the big stick that is still continually whacking the dead price horse.
The seller's job is to now take the surveyor's long list of deficiencies and, and either reduce his price again to make some of them go away, or agree to rectify them as a condition of the sale. Finally a deal is struck, contracts are signed, a sea trial is scheduled. Time is now of the essence. The buyer wants the boat, the brokers want their commission checks, the seller just wants it to be over.
Now enters the Installer clutching the surveyors report. The sea trial is three days from now. You didn't even know the boat was for sale, and have never seen it. Often you're contacted by a broker, and you don't have a clue who the owner is. You just know you're to spend as little money as possible, and you've got three days.
It seems the radar is broken, and has been for several years. The old chart plotter is acting up. You grind through the list, and make everything okay, by hook, crook or baling wire if needed.
The seller has already been keel hauled, and the sea trial is the final plank to be walked. Brokers who now need cups to catch their ever increasing drool flow, a captain, and the buyer all go for the metaphorical three hour tour. Inevitably something else is found. I didn't feel that vibration before, is it normal? Is the radar making a funny noise? But on the whole it goes okay, and the brokers press for the deal to close.
The buyer gives the now very bloated dead price horse a final good kick. If you just do this, I will sign the contract contingent on you keeping your word. It's not that we don't trust you, just initial the addendum right here, and here, and here, and here. The deal is done. The installer is given one more job to do, and does it. The boat is immediately relocated to another state. The seller goes back to his home in the north nursing his ulcer. The brokers are now celebrating in the Bahamas.
Excuse me, here is my bill. Is anybody here? Where did this echo come from? Hello? Hello?
Since my milieu is generally marine electronics, I have some advice for sellers. Before you list the boat, give it a good look over yourself, or better yet hire a marine surveyor to do it for you. Knowing what's going to come up in advance is valuable.
The second piece of advice is buyers typically won't miss what isn't there. By this I mean if the radar hasn't worked for years, remove it. Have a dead marine electronics something or another in the dash, make it go away. If you don't, the buyer will want it to work, at your expense. Once the pictures are taken of the boat with the dead radar on the arch or hardtop, and spewed all over the internet, you're going to be stuck with making it work.
Next, cleanliness is critical, especially in places a good marine surveyor is going to look. I can always tell how well a boat has been maintained by the condition of the engine room, under helms, and all the hidden recesses. Filthy engines, gross shower sump boxes, oily bilges all say the owner isn't paying attention. And lastly get everything that's not going away with the boat, taken off the boat. It makes it easier for me to get to things, and there is no confusion about what comes with the boat.
Hello, is anyone here? Where did everyone go?
The buyer gives the now very bloated dead price horse a final good kick. If you just do this, I will sign the contract contingent on you keeping your word. It's not that we don't trust you, just initial the addendum right here, and here, and here, and here. The deal is done. The installer is given one more job to do, and does it. The boat is immediately relocated to another state. The seller goes back to his home in the north nursing his ulcer. The brokers are now celebrating in the Bahamas.
Excuse me, here is my bill. Is anybody here? Where did this echo come from? Hello? Hello?
Since my milieu is generally marine electronics, I have some advice for sellers. Before you list the boat, give it a good look over yourself, or better yet hire a marine surveyor to do it for you. Knowing what's going to come up in advance is valuable.
The second piece of advice is buyers typically won't miss what isn't there. By this I mean if the radar hasn't worked for years, remove it. Have a dead marine electronics something or another in the dash, make it go away. If you don't, the buyer will want it to work, at your expense. Once the pictures are taken of the boat with the dead radar on the arch or hardtop, and spewed all over the internet, you're going to be stuck with making it work.
Next, cleanliness is critical, especially in places a good marine surveyor is going to look. I can always tell how well a boat has been maintained by the condition of the engine room, under helms, and all the hidden recesses. Filthy engines, gross shower sump boxes, oily bilges all say the owner isn't paying attention. And lastly get everything that's not going away with the boat, taken off the boat. It makes it easier for me to get to things, and there is no confusion about what comes with the boat.
Hello, is anyone here? Where did everyone go?
Sunday, 9 April 2017
Cheapskates on the Move Swimmers Ear
Today's public service announcement: A simple way to prevent swimmer's ear (one of the most common reasons for Dr's visits while in the Caribbean), with items you have in your bathroom cabinet:
"...If you know you don't have a punctured eardrum, you can use homemade preventive eardrops before and after swimming. A mixture of 1 part white vinegar to 1 part rubbing alcohol may help promote drying and prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi that can cause swimmer's ear. Pour 1 teaspoon (about 5 milliliters) of the solution into each ear and let it drain back out. Similar over-the-counter solutions may be available at your drugstore."
http://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/swimmers-ear/manage/ptc-20201568
Cheapskates on the Move Washing dishes
On the boat, we are trying to conserve the fresh water in our tanks. In Odin the Winnebago, we are trying to slow filling the grey water tank. Doing dishes is the most wasteful use of water (besides showering--more on that later) and here's our technique, adopted and adapted from other cruiser tips. It's also earth-friendly (allowing you to afford more expensive dish soap because it lasts longer), saves plastic, and saves money.
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Start with an earth-friendly foaming soap (I like Seven Generation, Method or Dawn). A little soap goes farther & the squirt of water is built right in! Then refill the empty bottle with regular dish soap--fill almost to the top with water, then add 2 Tbsp dish soap. Shake ocassionally to keep mixed.
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Our favorite is Lunatec (Learned from The Boat Galley). It comes in a 4-pack and one dish cloth lasted us at least a year! Just the right amount of scrubby, antibacterial & quick drying (I love the loop for hanging up on the faucet). Never smells.
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(WARNING: My sister should stop reading here. She will be horrified. So was I, when I read posts on a sailor's forum. Boiling water equals CLEAN! However, open your mind for a second, and read on...)
Technique:
We primarily wash & rinse in cold water. I know it sounds crazy, but it works fine. If you NEED hot water (tomato or oil based recipe), you can heat it up in a tea kettle (or put some water in a pot still warm from cooking & put it back on the stove--running water while waiting for it to get hot is WASTEFUL!). Many of us were taught to use hot water because it leaves less streaks, but see "Rinse" below.
This may sound basic, but washing the least dirty things first will keep your dishwater cleaner. Glasses first, silverware, then pots & pans last.
For a few items, the foaming soap on the washcloth works great. Otherwise, it only takes a couple inches of water to wash dishes but using a pot or bowl that needs to be washed as your basin is even better.
Rinse: This is your biggest water waster. Try a few squirts from the water bottle. Even better, don't rinse off the soap OR just rinse off the "eating surface" of bowls or pans. You don't need to rinse off the outside. You won't eat off the surface & it's WASTEFUL! Bonus: soapy water doesn't leave streaks! Before you say, EWWWWW!, here's food for thought: the-cultural-divide-on-washing-dishes-brits-vs-americans
Tips: Do dishes before the food dries (I know. This is the part I hate). It will require less water OR, a few squirts from the water bottle OR a quick swish of a wet wash cloth & let it sit a second will loosen difficult stains.
The same foaming concept works for the bathroom:
Foaming hand soap canister
Fill almost to the top with water
2 Tbsp castile soap (unscented or citrus to deter mosquitos)
1 tsp coconut oil or glycerin (moisturizing)
10 drops lavender or tea tree essential oil for disinfecting
Try one or two of the steps above to start. You'll get used to it. You may not adopt the whole process, but you may find some things you do out of habit aren't necessary. Good luck. Share your tips below.
Friday, 7 April 2017
Rod Stephens Jr Dont Underestimate the Mizzen
Here's a brief article by Rod Stephens from what I believe is Sail magazine from 1982. Please double click for zoom.
A Bombaloza Scull on the Berg River
News is in that they have been discussing the Bombaloza Scull at a Berg River meeting?
This lad may just be in training for the day he is big enough to have a go himself!
With the very detailed plans (44 pages?) cost starting at just R500 you can start easy enough by cutting it out yourself, CKD Boats cc can supply the CNC kit which does get you on the water that much faster.
The kit is three sheets of okoume marine play for the hull and one sheet of pine ply for the builders jig (re usable) we offer the epoxy, glass tape , fumed silica and micro balloons to make the fillers and epoxy fillets too.
Roy
This lad may just be in training for the day he is big enough to have a go himself!
With the very detailed plans (44 pages?) cost starting at just R500 you can start easy enough by cutting it out yourself, CKD Boats cc can supply the CNC kit which does get you on the water that much faster.
The kit is three sheets of okoume marine play for the hull and one sheet of pine ply for the builders jig (re usable) we offer the epoxy, glass tape , fumed silica and micro balloons to make the fillers and epoxy fillets too.
Roy
Thursday, 6 April 2017
The Great Swamp
I could almost taste it from the start, and surely before a mile had passed, it was heavy on the tongue. As good as the waters that I have been paddling in are, they have lacked wildness, at least the wildness that I have become inured to. Only one or two bends pass and the Great Swamp goes as wild as anywhere. I can feel it, I can taste it, I can smell it. Road noise is beyond my hearing abilities, no buildings can be seen. Instead, bull frogs send out their calls, a "rubber bandy" twang that is part percussion, part stringed instrument. I hear them, but they remain hidden. A great blue heron, the first of more than a dozen, takes off through the forest...an effect that makes it look bigger than it already is. Herons flying through the trees never ceases to amaze me...they should not be able to do that.
The forested stream gives way to an open sun filled swamp of standing dead and stressed trees. The channel is deep enough, the water clean and tinted a translucent green. There is a discernible flow opposing me, but it is of no consequence for the canoe. It is enough to keep the channel clear and clean and no doubt flushes a steady flow of nutrients through the swamp plants...and fish... kingfishers have been steady companions, so far.
Before I am an hour out, I cross a low beaver dam with the associated beaver lodge not 10 yards upstream of it. From here on the banks become the terrain of animals even more than the ones I have already passed. I spot a beaver scent mound and game trails coming to the water's edge with increased frequency.
The stream re-enters the forest, necking down and meandering tightly. Deadfalls have to be clambered over every couple hundred yards or so. There is nearly 20 miles of Great Swamp above me...the effort is worthwhile. I spot a green-backed heron (the first of four). Just as I leave the forest, I spot an endangered North American wood turtle with a radio mounted on its shell.
A second open-sky swamp arrives after passing under a bridge, and another beaver dam, and another beaver dam. This open marsh is larger than the first, probably too large for me to get through on today's trip. I set my turn-around for 2-1/2 hours and continue on, until I am near a beaver lodge where the loudest and most rambunctious bull frogs of all are singing. I stop and record them for a few minutes (I carry a small field recorder in my camera kit - a gift from one of my canoe partners).
And it is time to return. The view will change.
I see the top of a white tail deer with velvet stumps at the first bend. I stop as it disappears, but I can hear it moving off.
The radio turtle is where I last saw it.
Back in the lower open swamp, I spot a single burned tree... a lightning strike.
For more information on this area - The Great Swamp
The Production Boat Designer
I thought it was an inspired idea. If I wanted to know why so many boats are so difficult to maintain, and so installation unfriendly, I should talk to some boat designers. Go to the horses mouth so to speak, and get the facts. I look online and find some firms whose sites aver they do production boat design, and pick some likely ones to communicate with. There aren't really very many of them. I pick one and send an email that goes somewhat like...
Dear Production Boat Design Professional, I'm a writer, and own a small company that installs marine electronics. My blog is built in part around the Whiskey Tango Foxtrot moments I encounter working on boats both large and small. These stories typically have one of three themes.
Inappropriate application of technology on boats, design/construction doesn't anticipate the customers future basic equipment installation needs, and boats which are extraordinarily difficult to maintain due to assembly/access issues or lack of documentation.
An example of one of these stories is here.
I have rules about these stories. The manufacturers are never mentioned, and the pictures are all close ups to make it impossible to identify the specific boat. My intent is to have builders improve upon these issues, not to point a finger, or hurt someone. If you had some time to talk with me about the designers role in this, I would very much appreciate it. My suspicion is the designer largely plays little role in these issues, and the fault mostly falls with the manufacturer. If you would rather not, I understand, I have scared a couple designers away already, even with the opportunity to have some control over the content. Anyway, thanks for any consideration. Tnx Bill
The silence was deafening. I was in space, and you couldn't hear me scream. A mote of dust settling on a feather, the tree that fell in the forest. You get the picture. I know one firm read one of the story links I included, and the others not so much. In retrospect I shouldn't have expected any of them to want to assist me. What, help the guy who's always disparaging boat design and construction? He's a witch, burn him! I suspect the truth is whether they are in some way responsible for the problems I write about, or not, they may have been involved with boats that I have had less than kind words about. They are numerous to say the least.
I spent many years working for high tech engineering and design firms. I'm going to apply my experience to a fictitious production boat design scenario. Here is the screen play I have in mind.
Das Boot Designer
(Working title)
EXT. COCKPIT OF YACHT - DAY
OMINOUS SOUNDING JIMMY BUFFET MUSIC SLOWLY BUILDING. The captain is watching satellite TV on the navigation display. Two blonde women dressed in skimpy bikinis are drinking margaritas and prancing around. None see the life raft full of orphans directly in their path.
EXT. LIFE RAFT - DAY
MUSIC BUILDS FASTER. Cut to life raft full of horrified orphans screaming with sharks circling as the bow quickly looms. MUSIC SWELLS TO CRESCENDO. The bow comes straight towards CAMERA. TITLE SLASHES ACROSS SCREEN, "DAS BOOT DESIGNER" Cut to black just before impact.
CREDITS and MUSIC continue over the following
INT. OFFICE CONFERENCE ROOM - DAY
Three men are sitting at a round conference table. MUSIC FADES.
EXT. LIFE RAFT - DAY
MUSIC BUILDS FASTER. Cut to life raft full of horrified orphans screaming with sharks circling as the bow quickly looms. MUSIC SWELLS TO CRESCENDO. The bow comes straight towards CAMERA. TITLE SLASHES ACROSS SCREEN, "DAS BOOT DESIGNER" Cut to black just before impact.
CREDITS and MUSIC continue over the following
INT. OFFICE CONFERENCE ROOM - DAY
Three men are sitting at a round conference table. MUSIC FADES.
DESIGNER DAVE
Well gentlemen what can I do for you?
JP GRUNION (PRESIDENT MAGNIFICO YACHTS)
Dave, we need a new boat design, ASAP, a 26 foot center console fishing boat.
MARVIN MOOK (VP MARKETING )
And it got to be real sexy looking! I mean it has to give Joe six pack a styrene and naugahyde boating chubby when he sees it. You know what I mean, a design that will look great in the boating magazines. Oh yeah coolers for beers, and lots of drink holders. We also have to fit a huge stereo in so make sure there is lots of room for speakers.
DESIGNER DAVE'S POV - SMALL SIGN HANGING ON WALL
Sign reads: The customer is always right as long as they have a check. The bigger the check the righter they are, and you can't fall off the floor.
DESIGNER DAVE
SIGHS - Well Mr. Grunion, you have come to the right place. I can design you a sexy boat. How much do you want the boat to cost?
JP GRUNION
Why as little as possible of course. That's why we're here.
CAMERA PANS BACK, SOUND OF CRICKETS CHIRPING FOR A LONG TIME.
I think naval architects do three types of boat designs. Vessels for the government that come with a banker's box full of specifications. These could be a hydrographic survey vessel, or a special boat for DHS. The architect will be responsible for everything, down to the location of the fire extinguishers, and the size of fasteners for their brackets.
I don't think they get rich at these but they are often large jobs that cover the overhead (Golf Club membership dues not included), and put 5 to 10% of the job value in the bank when the dust settles.
The next group is one off custom design and build jobs. If I was in this line of work, I think with the right client this would be a most satisfying activity. Work closely with the client to determine the needs and wants. Design the vessel, work with the client to select a builder, and supervise construction. At the end, the client, and the designer know everything there is to know about the vessel.
The last type of activity is designing a boat that will go into production. This is where things can be different, and appear go a bit awry.
I don't think they get rich at these but they are often large jobs that cover the overhead (Golf Club membership dues not included), and put 5 to 10% of the job value in the bank when the dust settles.
The next group is one off custom design and build jobs. If I was in this line of work, I think with the right client this would be a most satisfying activity. Work closely with the client to determine the needs and wants. Design the vessel, work with the client to select a builder, and supervise construction. At the end, the client, and the designer know everything there is to know about the vessel.
The last type of activity is designing a boat that will go into production. This is where things can be different, and appear go a bit awry.
I think in the design of our fictitious Magnifico 26 foot center console fishing boat, the architect's scope of work gets scaled way back.
"Okay," says the architect "Do you want me to do the electrical system design." "Heck no Designer Dave, we have a contractor who will just stretch the 22' design we already have." "Should I anticipate what kind of navigation equipment will be installed?" "Are you going to do that for free Designer Dave? If not don't worry about it. The dealers and the owners installers will figure something out."
In the end, I'm guessing in this scenario the builder gets a comprehensive CAD package that has the structural elements of hull, deck, console, and smaller fiberglass components such as hatches. This is accompanied by a book that includes all of the calculations for stability, hydrodynamics, material schedules, and all other things that will relieve the architect of legal liability if the boat breaks. "You didn't build it according to the plans says the architect. That's why the deck came off. I told you to put screws in the hull to deck joint every two inches, not every two feet." The builder does everything else, all too often poorly.
This is the only scenario I can think of where you can have a safe good looking boat with a great hull, and still have it be a marginal piece of work at best. No anticipation of customer needs, no access for maintenance, no room for the equipment, and inadequate wire conduits if they exists at all. The actual list is much longer.
I do understand why designers who do this type work, might not want their clients singled out for their poor implementation of good designs, at least their contractual scope portion. It would not be good for business. But where do we go from here? Keep the status quo by producing barely maintainable vessels, or is there an alternative? I know it can be done better. I'm not saying all production boats are of poor quality, but there sure are a lot of them. It's a rare day I don't encounter one. I just deal with the insides, not the pretty outsides.
See Designer Daves, that wasn't too bad. I don't bite, hard at least. I just wish I didn't have to guess what really happens, but I think I'm pretty close. Any thoughts? I'm tired of bleeding.
"Okay," says the architect "Do you want me to do the electrical system design." "Heck no Designer Dave, we have a contractor who will just stretch the 22' design we already have." "Should I anticipate what kind of navigation equipment will be installed?" "Are you going to do that for free Designer Dave? If not don't worry about it. The dealers and the owners installers will figure something out."
In the end, I'm guessing in this scenario the builder gets a comprehensive CAD package that has the structural elements of hull, deck, console, and smaller fiberglass components such as hatches. This is accompanied by a book that includes all of the calculations for stability, hydrodynamics, material schedules, and all other things that will relieve the architect of legal liability if the boat breaks. "You didn't build it according to the plans says the architect. That's why the deck came off. I told you to put screws in the hull to deck joint every two inches, not every two feet." The builder does everything else, all too often poorly.
This is the only scenario I can think of where you can have a safe good looking boat with a great hull, and still have it be a marginal piece of work at best. No anticipation of customer needs, no access for maintenance, no room for the equipment, and inadequate wire conduits if they exists at all. The actual list is much longer.
I do understand why designers who do this type work, might not want their clients singled out for their poor implementation of good designs, at least their contractual scope portion. It would not be good for business. But where do we go from here? Keep the status quo by producing barely maintainable vessels, or is there an alternative? I know it can be done better. I'm not saying all production boats are of poor quality, but there sure are a lot of them. It's a rare day I don't encounter one. I just deal with the insides, not the pretty outsides.
See Designer Daves, that wasn't too bad. I don't bite, hard at least. I just wish I didn't have to guess what really happens, but I think I'm pretty close. Any thoughts? I'm tired of bleeding.
The CAD drawing photo by Wikipedia user SaltyBoatr
The futuristic boat print by Wikipedia user Bundesarchiv, Bild 102-11217 / CC-BY-SA
Installing the Garmin Side and DownVü through hull transducers
The Garmin Down/SideVu through hull transducers come in two versions. One looks left, right, and down in a single transducer (deadrise of 5 degrees or less and does not require a fairing block). The ones I'm installing are a pair. The port side transducer just looks to port, and the right side transducer looks both down and to the right (deadrise angle from 5-25 degrees. The kit I used consisted of the transducer pair, two fairing blocks, 2 anti-rotation bolts, bushings, washers, nuts, pigtail to connect the transducers together, twelve pin transducer cable, and GCV 10 with a power and network cable. In sum all of the hardware you need is supplied. Let's get messy!
The boat is a 35' center console stepped hull fishing boat. Like many stepped hull vessels transducer placement can be challenging. The small area forward of the steps has a tilted element transducer installed there. No room is left now for new transducer pair.
There is room aft on the hull bottom but the combination of the trailer design, and location of the water pickups eliminates those locations.
This boat also has a stepped transom. I'm going to place the transducers on the hull portion behind the transom step where I placed the white box in the picture above. It really doesn't matter much. Here is my logic why. On a stepped hull boat any transducer placed anywhere aft of the hull steps will not work at planing speeds period.
Transducers placed aft of hull steps only work at much slower speeds. This speed is defined as the hull is moving slow enough the turbulence created by the steps won't affect the laminar water flow the transducer needs to see the bottom well. For this boat, in this location it is up to 7.5 knots. This is good as it will ever be.
To begin the process we need to template the hull angle. You can use a smart phone app to measure the angle, and it works. I prefer a much simpler tool, a piece of paper. Often low tech does the trick.
My photo is a dramatization of the actual event. What you're going to do is fold the top of paper at an angle that makes the bottom of the sheet of paper parallel to the ground. You will need to make a few refolds to get it right. The fold needs to end at the upper right hand corner. Your eyeballs will tell you when its right. If you're off a couple of degrees it won't make any significant difference in the transducers overall performance.
It's tool carnage time. I have laid out the important things on the table saw. The paper template I'm going to use to set the saw angle, the fairing block, my screw gun and a couple of screws? Huh, what's that for?
This without a doubt is the cleverest idea I have seen in a long time. This fairing block has screw holes in the corners. This allows you to attach it to a 2x4 or the ilk that rides on top of the table saw fence. You could also attach it to a piece of lumber that would ride against the fence side. A piece of 4x4 would work well.
This lets you feed the fairing block into the high speed whirling blade of death giving you great control while keeping your hands and fingers well clear of the blade. A most excellent piece of real world insight, and I personally want to thank the designer for this finger saving stroke of genius.
That little piece of tape at an angle on the fairing block is there to remind me of the correct orientation. It's easy, at least for me, to get distracted. Cutting it ass backwards is not desirable and costly.
That little piece of tape at an angle on the fairing block is there to remind me of the correct orientation. It's easy, at least for me, to get distracted. Cutting it ass backwards is not desirable and costly.
Here is our finished piece de resistance assembled. The bottom portion of the fairing block was flat sanded with a stationary belt sander to remove any saw blade grooves. The edges and holes have been deburred. You can see the bushings in the gap between the pieces. It's time to tell the boat to turn its head and cough while you punch some holes.
At this point you will need mineral spirits, acetone, full roll of paper towels, two tubes of fast cure 5200, 1/2" spade bit, either a 1 1/4" hole saw or spade bit and something to abrade around the hole edges.
At this point you will need mineral spirits, acetone, full roll of paper towels, two tubes of fast cure 5200, 1/2" spade bit, either a 1 1/4" hole saw or spade bit and something to abrade around the hole edges.
There are good templates included with the transducers, but I didn't use them. This is something I have done for years because most transducers don't come with templates in the first place.
I locate and drill the stem hole. In the case of this transducer, I insert the transducer stem into the fairing block, twist the actual transducer about 20 degrees off center and shove it up into the hole wire and all.
This does two things at once. It verifies the stem hole angle is good because if it isn't the fairing block won't fit well against the hull. While holding it against the hull rotate the fairing block until it's positioned where you want it.
Mark the anti-rotation bolt hole through the fairing block hole. I stuck some blue tape in the approximate location of the hole so it's easy to mark with a pen or pencil. This is a 1/2" hole. Drill it, and dry fit the transducer assembly again to make sure it fits. If not make corrections.
This does two things at once. It verifies the stem hole angle is good because if it isn't the fairing block won't fit well against the hull. While holding it against the hull rotate the fairing block until it's positioned where you want it.
Mark the anti-rotation bolt hole through the fairing block hole. I stuck some blue tape in the approximate location of the hole so it's easy to mark with a pen or pencil. This is a 1/2" hole. Drill it, and dry fit the transducer assembly again to make sure it fits. If not make corrections.
A couple words about the holes are needed. The template shows the hole diameters with and without the bushings. I suggest you use the bushings and I will talk about this later. The anti-rotation bolt hole using bushings is 1/2". The stem hole for bushings is 1 1/4". Technically a 1 3/16" hole will work, but the slightly larger hole diameter provides some margin for drilling errors. When done, abrade the areas around the holes to help the sealant stick really well. I used a small wire wheel in my drill to speed things up. I wiped down the rest of the area with acetone.
It's time to play "Squeeze Out That Goo." I'm going to use Fast Cure 5200. "Why?" you ask. "It's not as strong as regular 5200." You can't really tell from 3M's spec sheets but regular 5200 is less viscous the the fast cure version.
The day I'm doing this it's stinking hot. It's in the mid nineties, and the humidity is staggering. Both versions of 5200 become less viscous as the temperatures increase. If I used the regular 5200 it would run everywhere. Everywhere is mostly where I don't want it to go. The fast cure version is almost as bad in hot temperatures. My fix for this is to cool the goo so it generally stays where I put it. A couple of hours in frig does the trick.
Start by putting a good bead around the anti-rotation bolt. You want to have enough goop there so when you slide the bushing on, and seat down it in place you have a really good seal around the bushing.
Do the same thing with the stem. Now apply a second ring of goop around the base of both bushings. Don't chintz on the goo. Now generously fill the unused anti-rotation bolt hole. Remember there will be a fairing block hole above it.
Get a couple of paper towels. Slide the transducer into the fairing block, and set the now getting messy unit on the paper towels. Apply another generous bead of sealant around the base of the anti-rotation bolt and stem, and thoroughly fill the unused bolt hole. I filled the bushing tops but in retrospect I probably didn't need to.
Put a really heavy bead of goop all the way around the fairing block edge. Check things carefully and add more goo if you're not sure you have applied enough. Spare the goo, spoil the transducer I say.
You're going to need another pair of hands to help you. Someone needs to be topside with wrenches, washers, and the other half of the fairing block. The bottom person slides the transducer assembly in place and holds it in place. This is what the paper towels are for. The person in the boat slides the other half of the fairing block into place, puts on the washers, and then the nuts.
If you have put on the goo correctly you should have extruded 5200 360 degrees around the fairing block/hull interface. You will likely have some goo oozing out in locations around the transducer.
Give the guy on the bottom a break and just quickly hand tighten things and let him go free. Tighten the nuts so they are snug. Don't do a roid raged scene with the nuts. This is a plastic fairing block, and you could damage the transducer by applying a 1000 foot pounds of force just because you can.
You're almost done. Take some papers towels and scrape the majority of the excess goo off. Use mineral spirits wetted paper towels to clean the rest of the surfaces.
You may find some goo continues to extrude out. Take a break, drink some Gatorade, and check on the transducer about fifteen minutes later. If need be do some more clean up.
After the transducers are cleaned up, everything else is mechanical. Connect the two transducers to the pigtail. These cables are clearly labeled. Attach the transducer cable to the pigtail and pull it to the GCV 10 module. Connect the GCV 10 to your chartplotter. Download the latest Garmin software for your unit, and do an update. Now go play and see things you have never seen before.
This boat went for a week long diving and fishing adventure in the Florida Keys for. I should get tons of sonar recordings and screenshots to check out. I will show them to you next week.
Erratta:
You don't have to use the bushings, and you can drill smaller holes in the hull but the fairing block holes will stay the same size. By using the bushings you reduce the area that has to be sealed increasing your chances of doing it right in the first place. The bushings are also used to isolate the transducer's metals from aluminum and steel hulls.
Like all transducers, the important thing to remember is location, location, location. Consider this carefully prior to installation. I have seen this transducer work well at 40 Kts if you put it in the right place.
The location of these transducers were very difficult to access, and I couldn't actually see the transducer itself. In my words it was a "Brailer." In a more accessible location I would add an additional step as follows: After sealants have been applied and the transducer is being held in place from below, from the top apply a generous bead of sealant around the anti-rotation bolt and stem where they pass through the hull. Then install the top fairing block part, washers, nuts, et al. I was extra careful with sealant application to compensate.
If using the left, right and down through hull transducer no fairing block is required, and the bushings are only used if the hull is aluminum or steel. An isolation plate is supplied to separate the transducer from a metallic hull.
19 SEP 14 A small postscript to this piece. There have been some subtle changes to the faring block design that eliminates the need to use the enclosed bushings when installed in a fiberglass hull. They are still required if they are to be attached to an aluminum or steel hull.
If using the left, right and down through hull transducer no fairing block is required, and the bushings are only used if the hull is aluminum or steel. An isolation plate is supplied to separate the transducer from a metallic hull.
19 SEP 14 A small postscript to this piece. There have been some subtle changes to the faring block design that eliminates the need to use the enclosed bushings when installed in a fiberglass hull. They are still required if they are to be attached to an aluminum or steel hull.
Wednesday, 5 April 2017
The Proteus 106 catamaran kit is now cheaper
Checking back on old mails and finding the prices to a kit on the Proteus 106 catamaran and around six years back when it was U$24,000 or so I now find that with the Rands devaluation the same kit will probably now cost you U$20,000, so a saving of U$4000 at the exchange rate today.
There was a plans fee increase, but far less than the saving mentioned above.
See also http://www.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-proteus-106-sailing-catamaran-has.html
There is also a Proteus 106 kit under construction here in Cape Town, I spoke to the owner yesterday and he has offered to supply pictures and details of his build.
The picture is of a Proteus 106 build in Thailand, the transoms have been extended on this boat.
http://www.com/proteus10.html
Roy
Length overall: 10.600 Meters
Beam: 6.360 Meters
Draught: 0.370/1.75 Meters (dagger up/down)
Displacement: 2800 Kilograms (light)
Mainsail: 48 Sq Meters
Roller Furl Jib: 24 Sq Meters
Genneker: 58 Sq Meters
Freshwater: 140 litres (installed or 20 litre containers)
(now added and included in your price)
or about U$9800 right now.
dated 16/09/2013
We can also supply the epoxy and glass cloth with glass tapes as an extra to the above offer.
You would do best to source the boats Meranti wood where you are.
There was a plans fee increase, but far less than the saving mentioned above.
See also http://www.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-proteus-106-sailing-catamaran-has.html
There is also a Proteus 106 kit under construction here in Cape Town, I spoke to the owner yesterday and he has offered to supply pictures and details of his build.
The picture is of a Proteus 106 build in Thailand, the transoms have been extended on this boat.
http://www.com/proteus10.html
Roy
Length overall: 10.600 Meters
Beam: 6.360 Meters
Draught: 0.370/1.75 Meters (dagger up/down)
Displacement: 2800 Kilograms (light)
Mainsail: 48 Sq Meters
Roller Furl Jib: 24 Sq Meters
Genneker: 58 Sq Meters
Freshwater: 140 litres (installed or 20 litre containers)
Please note
This includes the materials for the hulls, bridge decks and bunks. The cockpit and coach roof will be added to the kit soon, please ask for further details.(now added and included in your price)
What the kit includes:
- 10 sheets of 4mm Redwood marine ply
- 6 sheets of 6mm " " " "
- 78 sheets of 9mm " " " "
- 16 sheets of 12mm " " " "
- MDF 17 sheets x 16mm x 1220 x 2440mm
- All CNC machine work of the above (excepting the 4mm plys)
or about U$9800 right now.
dated 16/09/2013
We can also supply the epoxy and glass cloth with glass tapes as an extra to the above offer.
You would do best to source the boats Meranti wood where you are.
Plans
All plans and royalties for this design must be bought prior or with the purchase to the kit and are available directly from us.Tuesday, 4 April 2017
In The Maine Woods 1917 Northwoods Photos
Another great vintage pic from In the Maine Woods (1917 Edition) featuring some folks showing off their catch. A nice Guide paddle shown in profile on the left...
In the same edition, on page 60 is a pic of Guide Tom Grinier. You can just make out his hand resting on the flat grip in the classic Northwoods stroke position.
Sunday, 2 April 2017
Splitting the transducer
The Parmain top secret laboratories have been bombarding a transducer with protons trying to get it to split. The DARPA program funding was pulled when the janitor said, "Just add a wire pigtail to the transducer, it's simple." Drat, time to write another grant request to DARPA. Maybe this time we could design a talking GPS for a boat. It should be simple enough for the average boater to use. To guide you to your destination it could say "Colder" or "Warmer." If you lurch to a stop it will say "Freezing."
Of all of the electrical things that exist on a boat, your transducer is the most reliable. It's always immersed in a salty chemical soup, gets dragged through the water often at very high speeds, and yet it keeps on working year after year. When I get a call dealing with a "no depth reading" problem, the first thing I suspect is the depth finder itself. Second could be the transducer face is covered with marine life having a rave party, and or has gotten knocked up. Third is damaged wiring. Fourth, and only very rarely the transducer has failed. There is an exception here. If it is a Garmin system, it may be suffering from thermistor-itis.
Of all of the electrical things that exist on a boat, your transducer is the most reliable. It's always immersed in a salty chemical soup, gets dragged through the water often at very high speeds, and yet it keeps on working year after year. When I get a call dealing with a "no depth reading" problem, the first thing I suspect is the depth finder itself. Second could be the transducer face is covered with marine life having a rave party, and or has gotten knocked up. Third is damaged wiring. Fourth, and only very rarely the transducer has failed. There is an exception here. If it is a Garmin system, it may be suffering from thermistor-itis.
Today's project started out with what appeared to be a bad split transducer that was feeding a single Garmin GPS 188C that was being used at two stations.
When I arrived on the scene, the 188C knows where it is, but displays a "Sonar Disconnected" message. Now it's time for "Tales from the thermistor."
This a fancy word for a thermometer. As the water temperature changes, the resistance in the circuit changes, and correlates to a temperature. You'll find these devices everywhere. In your oven, engine water temperature senders, hot water heaters, and inside transducers to name a few.
But as reliable as this device is, for reasons that aren't clear to me, it's not quite as reliable as the transducer's piezoceramic element that does the sonar pinging, and listens to the returning echo.
Back in days of yore, sounder module builders had from zero, to varying simple schemes to tell if, and maybe what kind of transducer was plugged into the module. In 2007 Airmar started to include an orange XID (transducer ID) wire. This allowed the transducer to tell the sounder who, and what it is.
Out comes a utility knife and I carefully slit the plastic cover away from the transducer cable. This transducer was made by Garmin. Note the green and red wires, they are not Airmar colors. With a flourish I cut and connect the green and white wires on the connector side together. It gets plugged in and the sonar disconnect message has gone away. Hah, see what my knowledge has wrought! Oops, the box now believes the transducer is there, but the old transducer isn't pinging. A new transducer was installed when the vessel was recently hauled, and I plug it in. It works fine. Okay this works about 99% of the time, but not this time.
If you see different colors, ie brown and blue when you slit the cable, this means the transducer was made by Airmar, and you will do the same thing only the colors will be brown and white. Remember this is on the connector side.
Part two of the problem is the old transducer had been split, and the cable was feeding two locations. This connection couldn't be accessed. This was a house boat, and a lot of wiring can only be accessed from underneath when the vessel is on land. Don't ask, it's a house boat thing. My best guess is the connection point became corroded, and Mr. Electricity encountered a road block.
The pull is buried in fiberglass insulation in the boats attic. Outlets had to be pulled from the wall, and wads of fiberglass insulation up top were jerked out to do this. I used over sized hemostats to extract what I thought was the wire, at the sort of half way point, and someone else bellowed, "that's the one," when I pulled on it hard. This is repeated at the lower helm to find the buried wire.
We're on the downhill slide now. The transducer wire is cut, and spliced wire for wire to the two connector end pigtail cables. The new cable for the 441s is connected, and we have joy at both helms.
2. Devices that are sharing a transducer, can't be on at the same time. Turn one on, only if the other one is off.
3. Do a good a good job with the splice, and if it lives in a bad place heat shrink the connections. For small wires the photo shows a good way to do the splice.
4. Don't call tech support for help with this discussion. They will all say "don't cut cables, your warranty will be in jeopardy, and we are holding your first born hostage to stop you." Just kidding they will be nice, but they will not think it is a good idea, and I don't want to be yelled at by them.
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