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Showing posts with label And. Show all posts

Tuesday, 18 April 2017

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Bahamas Yacht Charters - Imagining Taking Your own Boat For the Bahamas

Once you decide on Bahamas Yacht Charters you have more than 500 miles of tropical waters to explore. The Bahamas is definitely an archipelago that contains over 700 islands, so unless you've got loads of cash you will not get to find out them all in one charter vacation. Decide on from crewed yacht charters or even a bareboat charter, but whichever a single you choose, it is possible to decide exactly where you would like to go. Bahamas Yacht Charters can help you plan your getaway so that it fulfills your every single want.

The difference in crewed yacht charters and bareboat charters is within the amenities that the yacht provides. You do not must know how to sail the yacht if you need the less costly bareboat, but you do must supply your personal meals and supplies. Furthermore, you have to bring along your own personal lounge chairs and watersports equipment or pick to rent them from Bahamas Yacht Charters. With crewed yacht charters, you don't have to do any operate aboard the yacht and everything is supplied for you. For those who have lots of cash to devote, it is possible to pick 1 on the luxury yacht charters. Bahamas lends itself to dreaming of luxury, so for that once inside a lifetime vacation, why not splurge?

As a rule, Bahamas Yacht Charters commence with a chart briefing at 9 A.M. Then you definitely can sail at 10 and also you need to have the yacht back by 10 at the finish on the charter period. If you would choose to possess an afternoon sailing time, you need to request this if you book your yacht charters. The Bahamas is appropriate for any time sailing and with the short distance from Florida towards the Bahamas, it doesn't make any difference what time you leave. You do need to be careful in the weather in the event you book the yacht charter during hurricane season.

You can also begin and finish the charter inside the Bahamas. Fly into Abaco and take the yacht from there. For yacht charters, Bahamas tax rates are 4% of the total expense on the charter and also you have to pay a everyday insurance coverage price for the yacht. This depends on the size of yacht you charter. For instance, the premium for yachts 41 feet and under is $33 every day and for all those more than 41 feet, the premium is $38 each day. The deductible together with the yacht charter insurance is $400, which you have to pay oneself if you result in any harm. Bahamas Yacht Charters supplies you using a full tank of fuel whenever you have a bareboat charter, but you need to return the yacht with all the tank full.

Sailing yachts from Bahamas Yacht Charters are much a lot more pricey. A standard yacht charter will expense about $13,000, which does not consist of meals, docking, drinks and costs. Through the summer season, the yacht charters are primarily based in Fort Lauderdale, Florida and during the winter they are based in the Bahamas. If a group of people determine to acquire collectively and book a charter from Bahamas Yacht Charters, they can split the price amongst them, that will significantly reduce the price per couple.

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Updates on Old and Ancient Canoes


A couple years ago, I noted briefly the discovery of a 230-year-old Canadian birchbark canoe, believed to be the oldest surviving example, in an English barn. At that time, a plan had been announced to transfer it to the Canadian Canoe Museum for study and conservation. The transfer has now been effected, and there are two good articles, one in the Winnipeg Free Press focusing on the news of the transfer, the other, by bark canoe expert Henri Vaillancourt in WoodenBoat, focusing on the canoe itself and its history (after following the link, click the tab "Open Article" for a readable version).


More recently, I noted the discovery of the remains of a Bronze-Age settlement in Whittlesey, near Peterborough, England, that included six dugout canoes. I recently came across an article in The Guardian/The Observer that included the photo above, a much better one than I could find for my earlier post. In addition to the thinness of the hull, indicating the sophisticated skill of the canoe's builder, the photo shows how the excavation left transverse beams of earth intact across the hull to retain its shape.

Back to the subject of birchbarks, here's a fine video illustrating their construction in great detail:

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Saturday, 15 April 2017

Herons and eagles and swans



S joined me today for a paddle in Union Bay. It was about 40F with a breeze out of the north that made the trip brisk. Up near the north point perch I spotted a pod of large turtles, all floating together just two inches under the surface. The largest was dinner plate size and the other three nearly that large. One eagle was in the lunch counter perch with a tasty flock of coots floating just a short way off. While we ate lunch, the female eagle came in and settled on the perch and the two of them whistled at each other for a few moments. Otherwise, they did not look so interested in hunting. The eleven swans were in a tight group between the west islands and when we drifted up on them to get a clear count, they honked and swam a few yards to keep their distance as we moved by to leave them to their feeding. There were many more herons out today than what I normally see and they were very active moving around. We also saw a snipe while close to the cattails and a couple kingfishers.

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Most Used Simple stitch and glue kayak plans


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Friday, 14 April 2017

Kalbarri boat hire and canoe safaris


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Monday, 10 April 2017

Stitch and glue canoe plans


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Boat sale observations the cast and crew


Being a shewed observer of human behavior I have noted some traits that seem to be common to most used boat sales. The first is that when people tell you it's not about the money, it's always about the money. The second one is the seller is going to lose money. It's all about the old tired joke" What are mixed emotions?" It's watching your mother in law driving your new car off a cliff.


Let's take a look at the participants involved in a typical boat sale. First there are the brokers. They come in two flavors. The first is the broker who will list your boat for what you think it's worth, and the second one tells you what it's really worth. Both types of brokers immediately start to salivate anticipating that sweet commission check soon to come.

The former gets more listings, but eventually has to lower the price, much to the owners abject chagrin. This often results in loss of the listing in the process. The later broker initially gets less listings, but in the end sells more boats.

Now for the sellers. They will most likely lose money, and the really unlucky ones will have to write a check. Sellers often have a resigned look on their face, and seem to have constant stomach pain. They also know what issues their boat really has. Most won't lie about them if very specifically asked, but they aren't going to bend over backward to bring them to a sellers attention.

The buyers on they other hand are already dreaming of that exotic trip while sipping beverages in coconut shells festooned with paper umbrellas. They are often seen clutching dogged eared West Marine catalogs. But much to the sellers dismay, in the process of negotiating a contract, the buyers are going to mercilessly beat that dead horse named  "Selling Price" with a really big ugly stick. 

Now for the marine surveyors. The prudent buyers are going to pay a professional to meticulously examine and probe every aspect of the vessel looking for anything that's less than perfect. Lack of perfection is not hard to find in a used boat. The results of the 25 page long survey are then cast into ingots, and used to add more heft to the big stick that is still continually whacking the dead price horse.

The seller's job is to now take the surveyor's long list of deficiencies and, and either reduce his price again to make some of them go away, or agree to rectify them as a condition of the sale. Finally a deal is struck, contracts are signed, a sea trial is scheduled. Time is now of the essence. The buyer wants the boat, the brokers want their commission checks, the seller just wants it to be over.

Now enters the Installer clutching the surveyors report. The sea trial is three days from now. You didn't even know the boat was for sale, and have never seen it. Often you're contacted by a broker, and you don't have a clue who the owner is. You just know you're to spend as little money as possible, and you've got three days.

It seems the radar is broken, and has been for several years. The old chart plotter is acting up. You grind through the list, and make everything okay, by hook, crook or baling wire if needed.

The seller has already been keel hauled, and the sea trial is the final plank to be walked. Brokers who now need cups to catch their ever increasing drool flow, a captain, and the buyer all go for the metaphorical three hour tour. Inevitably something else is found. I didn't feel that vibration before, is it normal? Is the radar making a funny noise? But on the whole it goes okay, and the brokers press for the deal to close.

The buyer gives the now very bloated dead price horse a final good kick. If you just do this, I will sign the contract contingent on you keeping your word. It's not that we don't trust you, just initial the addendum right here, and here, and here, and here. The deal is done. The installer is given one more job to do, and does it. The boat is immediately relocated to another state. The seller goes back to his home in the north nursing his ulcer. The brokers are now celebrating in the Bahamas.

Excuse me, here is my bill. Is anybody here? Where did this echo come from? Hello? Hello?

Since my milieu is generally marine electronics, I have some advice for sellers. Before you list the boat, give it a good look over yourself, or better yet hire a marine surveyor to do it for you. Knowing what's going to come up in advance is valuable.

The second piece of advice is buyers typically won't miss what isn't there. By this I mean if the radar hasn't worked for years, remove it. Have a dead marine electronics something or another in the dash, make it go away. If you don't, the buyer will want it to work, at your expense. Once the pictures are taken of the boat with the dead radar on the arch or hardtop, and spewed all over the internet, you're going to be stuck with making it work.

Next, cleanliness is critical, especially in places a good marine surveyor is going to look. I can always tell how well a boat has been maintained by the condition of the engine room, under helms, and all the hidden recesses. Filthy engines, gross shower sump boxes, oily bilges all say the owner isn't paying attention. And lastly get everything that's not going away with the boat, taken off the boat. It makes it easier for me to get to things, and there is no confusion about what comes with the boat.

Hello, is anyone here? Where did everyone go?

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Saturday, 8 April 2017

Dinghy plans and kits


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Thursday, 6 April 2017

Installing the Garmin Side and DownVü through hull transducers


The Garmin Down/SideVu through hull transducers come in two versions. One looks left, right, and down in a single transducer (deadrise of 5 degrees or less and does not require a fairing block). The ones I'm installing are a pair. The port side transducer just looks to port, and the right side transducer looks both down and to the right (deadrise angle from 5-25 degrees. The kit I used consisted of the transducer pair, two fairing blocks, 2 anti-rotation bolts, bushings, washers, nuts, pigtail to connect the transducers together, twelve pin transducer cable, and GCV 10 with a power and network cable. In sum all of the hardware you need is supplied. Let's get messy!


The boat is a 35' center console stepped hull fishing boat. Like many stepped hull vessels transducer placement can be challenging. The small area forward of the steps has a tilted element transducer installed there. No room is left now for new transducer pair.

There is room aft on the hull bottom but the combination of the trailer design, and location of the water pickups eliminates those locations.

This boat also has a stepped transom. I'm going to place the transducers on the hull portion behind the transom step where I placed the white box in the picture above. It really doesn't matter much. Here is my logic why. On a stepped hull boat any transducer placed anywhere aft of the hull steps will not work at planing speeds period.

Transducers placed aft of hull steps only work at much slower speeds. This speed is defined as the hull is moving slow enough the turbulence created by the steps won't affect the laminar water flow the transducer needs to see the bottom well. For this boat, in this location it is up to 7.5 knots. This is good as it will ever be.

To begin the process we need to template the hull angle. You can use a smart phone app to measure the angle, and it works. I prefer a much simpler tool, a piece of paper. Often low tech does the trick.

My photo is a dramatization of the actual event. What you're going to do is fold the top of paper at an angle that makes the bottom of the sheet of paper parallel to the ground. You will need to make a few refolds to get it right. The fold needs to end at the upper right hand corner. Your eyeballs will tell you when its right. If you're off a couple of degrees it won't make any significant difference in the transducers overall performance.

It's tool carnage time. I have laid out the important things on the table saw. The paper template I'm going to use to set the saw angle, the fairing block, my screw gun and a couple of screws? Huh, what's that for?
This without a doubt is the cleverest idea I have seen in a long time. This fairing block has screw holes in the corners. This allows you to attach it to a 2x4 or the ilk that rides on top of the table saw fence. You could also attach it to a piece of lumber that would ride against the fence side.  A piece of 4x4 would work well.

This lets you feed the fairing block into the high speed whirling blade of death giving you great control while keeping your hands and fingers well clear of the blade. A most excellent piece of real world insight, and I personally want to thank the designer for this finger saving stroke of genius.

That little piece of tape at an angle on the fairing block is there to remind me of the correct orientation. It's easy, at least for me, to get distracted. Cutting it ass backwards is not desirable and costly.

Here is our finished piece de resistance assembled. The bottom portion of the fairing block was flat sanded with a stationary belt sander to remove any saw blade grooves. The edges and holes have been deburred. You can see the bushings in the gap between the pieces. It's time to tell the boat to turn its head and cough while you punch some holes.

At this point you will need mineral spirits, acetone, full roll of paper towels, two tubes of fast cure 5200, 1/2" spade bit, either a 1 1/4" hole saw or spade bit and something to abrade around the hole edges.

There are good templates included with the transducers, but I didn't use them. This is something I have done for years because most transducers don't come with templates in the first place.

I locate and drill the stem hole. In the case of this transducer, I insert the transducer stem into the fairing block, twist the actual transducer about 20 degrees off center and shove it up into the hole wire and all.

This does two things at once. It verifies the stem hole angle is good because if it isn't the fairing block won't fit well against the hull. While holding it against the hull rotate the fairing block until it's positioned where you want it.

Mark the anti-rotation bolt hole through the fairing block hole. I stuck some blue tape in the approximate location of the hole so it's easy to mark with a pen or pencil. This is a 1/2" hole. Drill it, and dry fit the transducer assembly again to make sure it fits. If not make corrections.

A couple words about the holes are needed. The template shows the hole diameters with and without the bushings. I suggest you use the bushings and I will talk about this later. The anti-rotation bolt hole using bushings is 1/2". The stem hole for bushings is 1 1/4". Technically a 1 3/16" hole will work, but the slightly larger hole diameter provides some margin for drilling errors. When done, abrade the areas around the holes to help the sealant stick really well. I used a small wire wheel in my drill to speed things up. I wiped down the rest of the area with acetone.

It's time to play "Squeeze Out That Goo." I'm going to use Fast Cure 5200. "Why?" you ask. "It's not as strong as regular 5200." You can't really tell from 3M's spec sheets but regular 5200 is less viscous the the fast cure version.

The day I'm doing this it's stinking hot. It's in the mid nineties, and the humidity is staggering. Both versions of 5200 become less viscous as the temperatures increase. If I used the regular 5200 it would run everywhere. Everywhere is mostly where I don't want it to go. The fast cure version is almost as bad in hot temperatures. My fix for this is to cool the goo so it generally stays where I put it. A couple of hours in frig does the trick.

Start by putting a good bead around the anti-rotation bolt. You want to have enough goop there so when you slide the bushing on, and seat down it in place you have a really good seal around the bushing.

Do the same thing with the stem. Now apply a second ring of goop around the base of both bushings. Don't chintz on the goo. Now generously fill the unused anti-rotation bolt hole. Remember there will be a fairing block hole above it.

Get a couple of paper towels. Slide the transducer into the fairing block, and set the now getting messy unit on the paper towels. Apply another generous bead of sealant around the base of the anti-rotation bolt and stem, and thoroughly fill the unused bolt hole. I filled the bushing tops but in retrospect I probably didn't need to.

Put a really heavy bead of goop all the way around the fairing block edge. Check things carefully and add more goo if you're not sure you have applied enough. Spare the goo, spoil the transducer I say.

You're going to need another pair of hands to help you. Someone needs to be topside with wrenches, washers, and the other half of the fairing block. The bottom person slides the transducer assembly in place and holds it in place. This is what the paper towels are for. The person in the boat slides the other half of the fairing block into place, puts on the washers, and then the nuts.

If you have put on the goo correctly you should have extruded 5200 360 degrees around the fairing block/hull interface. You will likely have some goo oozing out in locations around the transducer.

Give the guy on the bottom a break and just quickly hand tighten things and let him go free. Tighten the nuts so they are snug. Don't do a roid raged scene with the nuts. This is a plastic fairing block, and you could damage the transducer by applying a 1000 foot pounds of force just because you can.

You're almost done. Take some papers towels and scrape the majority of the excess goo off. Use mineral spirits wetted paper towels to clean the rest of the surfaces.

You may find some goo continues to extrude out. Take a break, drink some Gatorade, and check on the transducer about fifteen minutes later. If need be do some more clean up.

After the transducers are cleaned up, everything else is mechanical. Connect the two transducers to the pigtail. These cables are clearly labeled.  Attach the transducer cable to the pigtail and pull it to the GCV 10 module. Connect the GCV 10 to your chartplotter. Download the latest Garmin software for your unit, and do an update. Now go play and see things you have never seen before.

This boat went for a week long diving and fishing adventure in the Florida Keys for. I should get tons of sonar recordings and screenshots to check out. I will show them to you next week.

Erratta: 

You don't have to use the bushings, and you can drill smaller holes in the hull but the fairing block holes will stay the same size. By using the bushings you reduce the area that has to be sealed increasing your chances of doing it right in the first place. The bushings are also used to isolate the transducer's metals from aluminum and steel hulls.

Like all transducers, the important thing to remember is location, location, location. Consider this carefully prior to installation. I have seen this transducer work well at 40 Kts if you put it in the right place.

The location of these transducers were very difficult to access, and I couldn't actually see the transducer itself. In my words it was a "Brailer." In a more accessible location I would add an additional step as follows: After sealants have been applied and the transducer is being held in place from below, from the top apply a generous bead of sealant around the anti-rotation bolt and stem where they pass through the hull. Then install the top fairing block part, washers, nuts, et al. I was extra careful with sealant application to compensate.

If using the left, right and down through hull transducer no fairing block is required, and the bushings are only used if the hull is aluminum or steel. An isolation plate is supplied to separate the transducer from a metallic hull.

19 SEP 14 A small postscript to this piece. There have been some subtle changes to the faring block design that eliminates the need to use the enclosed bushings when installed in a fiberglass hull. They are still required if they are to be attached to an aluminum or steel hull.

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