Showing posts with label old. Show all posts
Showing posts with label old. Show all posts
Tuesday, 18 April 2017
Updates on Old and Ancient Canoes
Back to the subject of birchbarks, here's a fine video illustrating their construction in great detail:
Monday, 10 April 2017
That old Seagull engine you have can it be fixed when its seized solid
This was one of two requests for Seagull information and on the same day.
Dear Roy, Stubbornly I cling to this old British Seagull Motor I have which does not work. The most likely explanation is that the magnets for generating a spark are too worn. But we don't know that. I could not figure out how to take the top off in order to get at the magnet.
Regards Roy
Cape Town
That is easy, just place your hand over the air intake.
The engine number dates this as a 1975 forty plus motor and with a 2 to 3 HP output.
This motor is in fine condition for its age. The forty plus will run on a 20:1 fuel petrol mix, you may need a new carburettor needle to be able to do this.
How do you stop a Seagull? just place your hand over the air intake.
How easy is that!
Roy
Andrew in the UK sent me this link and info today , many thanks.
Dear Roy, Stubbornly I cling to this old British Seagull Motor I have which does not work. The most likely explanation is that the magnets for generating a spark are too worn. But we don't know that. I could not figure out how to take the top off in order to get at the magnet.
Cort Wrotnowski
Greenwich, Connecticut, USAHere is my reply and as yet not replied to.
Cort,Thanks on your mail!
Please do not take the flywheel off, this is not recomended, you can take the top cover to service the points though.
The points and spark plug gaps are important of course, so start with them, if there is no spark at all, try a power drill to the
Flywheel and spin it up, this will normally re generate a magnet and thats it done?
Cape Town
www.www.com
The other Seagull engine was brought to me for a look over, all in all it was a very good buy and with just one part missing, which was the plastic bracket that holds the rear drive tube in place, this needs to be there!
I advised the new owner to take the parts of like fuel pipe and carb, clean them and the fuel tank, plus the two in line filters before trying to start it. The engine is now a runner and we got a phone call asking how to stop it!The other Seagull engine was brought to me for a look over, all in all it was a very good buy and with just one part missing, which was the plastic bracket that holds the rear drive tube in place, this needs to be there!
That is easy, just place your hand over the air intake.
http://youtu.be/5rvKAm6XvVw
Have uploaded a video showing how to free up a seized seagull 40 motor, along with stripping down and replacing other parts. Hope this is of use to someone. Please feel free to share it as I am sure it will encourage more people to buy more spares and save a few more from the scrap heap.
Kind regards Andrew
Have uploaded a video showing how to free up a seized seagull 40 motor, along with stripping down and replacing other parts. Hope this is of use to someone. Please feel free to share it as I am sure it will encourage more people to buy more spares and save a few more from the scrap heap.
Kind regards Andrew
Please be careful using a blow lamp, lump hammer and an impact tool!
Roy
Sunday, 2 April 2017
Fixing an old failure scarfing a grip onto a sassafras northwoods Part 3
Here's the end story with the scarfed sassafras paddle. The previous post on this paddle mentioned that the blade had weathered after being exposed untreated for years in the backyard garden. One side had turned into to a light brown colour while the more exposed face oxidized into a greyish black patina.
Different sides of the weathered blade
After carving down the shoulder and throat and shaving off the weathered top layer, the now golden hue of the sassafras came out with no signs of wear. Between the blade weathering, the darkened sassafras and the light creamy new sassafras grip, the paddle now had 3 distinct colour tones. Briefly considered scraping off the oxidized layer and staining the light wood to match the rest of the paddle, but some online feedback suggested to leave it alone. The old wood and new wood obviously contrast but it'll be a reminder of how this paddle pretty much came back from the grave.
However, for practical purposes I decided to add a leather wrap around the shaft using 1/2" wide, 60 inch long saddle string leather collecting dust in the leather supply box.
1/2" x 60" Saddle String
I've already described my method of attachment in this previous post from 2009 so didn't take any new photos of the process. Many of the links in the post from back then are no longer active but my photos and description is the same. Trim roughly 4" from the ends to a point, tack on the bottom, soak the leather in warm water and then stretch tightly around the shaft. Using a clamp to hold the bulk of the wrapping, the final bit is stretched out and the final tack is secured. After drying, the leather shrinks an securely grips the shaft. It is then waterproofed using Sno-Seal applied with a heat gut and brush. So far this method hasn't failed me but it does rely on the waterproofing treatment to prevent the the leather from soaking through and likely getting loose again. So once a season, I apply more Sno-Seal to the other wrapped paddles and they are good to go.
Closeup of wrap. Pins not visible but are on the other side...
So here it is...a resurrected paddle. It'll have to wait a few more weeks until it gets dipped in the water.
Paddle Complete
Wednesday, 22 March 2017
PDF Old shoe sailboat plans
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Tuesday, 14 March 2017
Here Old boats plans
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