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Showing posts with label or. Show all posts
Showing posts with label or. Show all posts

Wednesday, 19 April 2017

Guide Skiff or bay boat


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19 foot Monomoy Skiff, boat repair, boat restoration and custom boat New 2011 Bay Craft Boats 180 Flats Explorer Flats Boat Photos- iboats flexible shallow water fishing boat the 20 bay boat is the most Copyright © 2016 Hell's Bay Boatworks - 321.383.8223 - 1520 Chaffee Captain Ian Devlin’s “The Search For My Next Skiff” Skiff Life 2015 CAROLINA SKIFF DLX1765

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Saturday, 15 April 2017

A canal river or inshore waters long range power cruising boat kit


This was done purely as a concept design and a few years back, the idea is still there it just needs someone who wants such a boat to allow the design to be completed?

Two possible layouts are shown, the final layout would be to the owners requirements.

I would expect  this design to be in a plywood/epoxy build with a GRP sheathing over it to add strength for contact with lock gates and walls?


Click on the images to view in a larger size.

The designer to this stage comments below.

I had anticipated about 40 Hp - 50 Hp for this design.
 Consumption around 2 l/h, at cruising speed of say 5-6 kts, would
give a daily range of 120 nm, using 48 l fuel (approx). If you carried 480
l, that would give you 10 days cruising, with a theoretical max range of
1200 nm in flat waters. Call it 1000 nm.





This design was intended as a versatile passagemaker - for med type
conditions, rather than canals. It would be ok on European rivers and
waterways, and the Med sea for example. Subject to beam restrictions, not
sure about the UK.

My thanks to JP for supplying the concept drawings which are copyright to himself.
Note, they must not be used for contruction in any form.

The final design and building details will be drawn up by a well known boat designer.

Comments invited!

Roy

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Tuesday, 11 April 2017

To tape or not to tape that is the question A goo vs tape analysis


I was asked to make a service call to replace a field diagnosed problem with a Garmin auto pilot shadow drive. The shadow drive is unique to Garmin's autopilots, and its job is to detect that the helmsman has taken control of the vessel by detecting movement of the helm. When it senses helm movement, it immediately disengages the autopilot, and gives full control to the helmsman to do some task like steering around a lobster trap buoy. After a couple of seconds with no helm movement, the auto pilot will request permission to re-engage, and place the vessel back on course. It is both clever, and easy to use.

The initial problem report was that a hydraulic pipe fitting had been screwed into the end of the shadow drive so tightly, that it had damaged the sensor's wire where it passed out of the brass case, and it sure looked that way when I first saw it. The fittings that screw into each end of the shadow drive are 1/4" NPT standard pipe fittings, and are often used in hydraulic steering systems. Armed with a lot of rags, and some wrenches, I try to unscrew the fittings but criminy, the fittings aren't moving. So back to the truck I go for some bigger wrenches, and with more effort than I would have ever thought I would have needed, they finally unscrewed out.
















I finally free the little beastie, and staring down inside the shadow drive, I find a wad of Teflon tape inside. This is the real culprit. Your boats steering system does not like any foreign materials that will find its way into check valves, ports, steering pump parts or the ilk, and this wad of tape was a problem. After examining all of the evidence at hand, I was able to logically determine that this problem must have been caused by a "Roid Raged" professional weight lifter, with a serious teflon tape fetish issue. I know this because even the Mercury hose fittings, that do not need tape or sealers at all, had tape on them. In a few minutes the new shadow drive was installed, and the system works now perfectly.   
















I have mixed feelings about hydraulic pipe thread sealing systems. They do two jobs, the first of which, and most importantly, is to lubricate the threads, allowing the fittings to screw down further, and the second job is to provide a seal for any spots where fluid can escape. In theory, and it is theory, perfectly machined NPT pipe threads on both parts will not leak, if they are tightly enough screwed together. The reality is that these parts, although closely machined, are often not perfectly machined, and handling, shipping, and other abuses in your hardware store, vendor shelves, and bouncing around in my truck all contribute to nicks, and flaws that can allow fluid at a 1000 psi to sneak through, and so these materials are sealants also. Lets now take a look at some of the options.

Ladies, and gentlemen, in the far corner, weighing in at next to nothing is Teflon Tape. He's pretty, snowy white, the reigning champion, and ready to fight.





















In the other corner, also weighing in at nearly nothing is TFE Goo. He's messy, not pretty, but has a long record of knock outs. Lets make it a clean fight, especially you Goo.






















We are now off to the very top secret Parmain laboratory to do some empirical analysis of the sealing options.
















Below is an example of the culprit that mucked up our Garmin shadow drive sensor, and an example of how not to apply teflon tape to pipe threads. When the tape is applied below the starting threads, the threads can cut off the lower tape, and allow it to enter the hydraulic system.
















I screwed that fitting in, and then screwed it out, and you can clearly see what happened. The threads did cut off the excess tape, which will migrate into the hydraulic system, mucking things up, as it did in the shadow drive.
















If you use teflon tape, this is what it should look like. You must keep the tape clear of the lower threads. When this fitting was screwed in, and then screwed out, it came out cleanly, with no tape left behind.
















Using the goo, you can actually encounter the same problems you have with teflon tape  By getting goo down on the lower threads, the same thing happens. The goo ends up on top of the fitting, allowing it to also get into the hydraulic system with the same ill effects. I did overplay the amount of goo used to illustrate the point, but it is not easy to apply it from the tube directly.
















Below is the a picture of that same fitting screwed in, and then backed out, and you can see the excess goo hanging off the end of the fitting.
















I mentioned in the beginning, that I have mixed emotions about all of these sealing products. They all have some pluses and minuses, and there is a huge number of products to chose from. They all have one thing in common, and that is proper application techniques. 

I'm not a fan of TFE paste. Yes it works well when properly used, but it can be messy. The products sold in tubes are hard to apply on the small fittings you see above, and many of them need some curing time to become truly effective. The second problem I have with the pastes, is despite the claims of many that they don't harden, they do. I know this because when I install an autopilot on a ten year old boat, that has been baking in the Florida sun, I have to often unscrew the 90 degree fittings off of the back of the helm pump, and replace them with tees. The TFE paste is often very hard, and brittle, and little chunks break free, and can fall into the helm pump if you are not very careful. The products that come in the cans with a brush, have brushes that are designed for larger household plumbing pipes, so you often need a smaller brush to apply it.

Truth be told, I would rather use teflon tape, than TFE paste anytime. Properly applied it works well, it isn't messy, but I suspect that companies like Teleflex have a long history of dealing with poorly applied teflon tape, and less issues overall with the paste products, and that is why they recommend that or other products. There are a couple of liabilities with the tape. You must wrap it in the right direction (looking at the fitting with threads down, you go counter clockwise), and you have a high probability of leaks, if you back the fitting off, even a little bit during installation.

Nothing is perfect in life, and often we have more options than we would like. It would be nice if there was only one solution available. We could grumble about it, but couldn't do anything about it, but this is not the case. Below is my current favorite. It is a purple colored liquid, and has a thin nozzle applicator, that makes it easier to apply to smaller fittings. Loctite makes many products that are similar, but avoid the products that are also thread lockers, if you ever want to get that part back off in a dark very cramped place. This product, although it works very well, also has a tenacious death grip on the threads, and under some scenarios you may need a heat gun to expedite removal. If I run out of it, I always have the tape (sorry Marc).

TFE Goo did win the fight, and Teflon Tape is still trying to wash it all off in the shower.
















If you have any better suggestions, edify all us with the comment box below.

I couldn't resist using the interesting laboratory picture, and I was not telling you the truth. It isn't my lab at all. The lab actually belongs to Mr. Tesla, and he is sitting in the chair. I won't do this to you again ever. Well mostly never, I might even keep using teflon tape, maybe....

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Monday, 10 April 2017

Topic How to buy a canoe or kayak


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Tuesday, 28 March 2017

Looking for a Hillman Imp or similar


I am looking for a new Imp project to follow the one I am working on now.

Do you know of a Hillman Imp or one of its re branded names anywhere in the Western Cape area of South Africa. Other areas considered but transport may be expensive?

For sale or trade and in a better condition than this GPO phone box.



What can I say, the car needs a little work I know but with panels now re manufactured we can fix most things!
We have doors and a roof in stock anyway.Roy

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Wednesday, 22 March 2017

Diel or no diel


Is this a big diel, or not? This is the question of the day. What we know is the image was captured in the Gulf of Mexico approximately 150 miles due west of Sarasota Fl. The boat was just on the edge of the continental shelf.

The screen shot was taken in the morning (late February) using a Garmin GSD 26 running on low chirp (sweeping 28kHZ to 60kHz) outputting 3000 watts. The transducer is an Airmar 599LH 25 element in hull unit. You can see the depth. There is a fuzzy broad line at 500'. This is most likely a secondary bottom echo. The line below it, running slightly downhill is our puzzle. The line is about 30' thick. and you are seeing about 11.2 minutes of recorded bottom. The descent rate of the line is 5.3' per minute.

A line was seen the previous evening in the same place. It looked very similar, but instead of descending, it was rising up. The boat had stopped after fishing all day, and Gordon Daniher was playing with his new sounder unit. He went into manual gain, ran it up a bit, and the line appeared. At the time he thought it was maybe a layer of bait fish.

I have circulated the picture around to several oceanographic institutions for an opinion. I thought at first it might be some sort of thin layer of plankton, but it turns out the line is too deep for that, and then one of the researchers suggested it might be a diel layer. But unfortunately there wasn't really enough information to verify this.

Diel vertical migration is when a species rises nearer to the surface at night to feed, and  then sinks down in the darker depths in the morning. One of the several reasons theorized this happens is at night when it's dark, it's harder for predators to find you. When it gets light they retreat back to the darker depths. As one researcher commented in a paper, "it's better to be hungry than dead." Lots of creatures do this, although not always by any means in a layer. Submarines first noticed this phenomena during WWII because they had the appearance of a false, or second sea bottom.

I think it was a diel vertical migration maybe comprised of necktons (baby fish, crustaceans et al). Despite the apparent symmetry of the line, had the gain been turned up more you may have seen the line was actually thicker, and perhaps not quite so regular in appearance. I think we are just seeing the core of the layer, and not the total extent of the layer. That's my theory, and I'm sticking to it, for now at least. I just can't find a way to say that a thirty foot thick descending layer is a false sonar artifact, and it persisted for a long time. So much for my PhD in marine biology I bought for $20.00 online.

The first professional I had an email discussion with wanted a lot more data about the image, starting with the raw data. Is there back scatter data? How many days of data do you have? The answer was of course zip to all of these, but it swings me around to the first point. The Garmin GSD 26 with this transducer would have made oceanographers drool with envy just a few short years ago, and is likely the equal, or better in hardware to what a lot of scientists use today.

The major difference between the current marine chirp fish finders, and the research versions of the technology is the ability to export and manipulate the raw data, and to use a wider range of frequency specific transducers.

My second point is that if you do see something interesting, and need, or want some interpretation of the image, collecting information about the image really helps. If you're using a chirp fish finder, your system can most likely capture screen shots. Take several with the gains increased and decreased. Change to the sonar setting pages, and take screen shots of the settings, and lastly, make a waypoint at the location. This will also capture the date and time along with the location.

I borrowed the picture above with permission from the Airmar blog. It's a good read. If you blow it up, it's amazing the detail that is being seen, starting with clearly seeing those bags of water called jellyfish, a first for me. Even more amazing to me is you can see the plankton the jellyfish are feeding on.

These are very sophisticated machines, and if you take the time to learn how to use them, there is no telling what you might discover. I'm working on my authoritative paper titled "Diurnal icthyoid population studies of fresh water springs in the Gulf of Mexico" by Bill Bishop, PhD, Marine Biology. Hey, I did pay twenty dollars for the diploma after all. I'm going over the Chum Bucket for lunch now. Diel, or no diel? That is the question.

Many thanks to the real professionals who took their valuable time to review the photo, and provide input.


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Saturday, 18 March 2017

Boating flare guns or testicular terror


Recently a Florida man, of course it's a Florida man, inadvertently or at least I hope so, shot himself in the groin with a marine flare gun. He subsequently required notable medical attention for damaged anatomy located in said region. So the question occurred to me, "What is the viability of using a marine flare gun as a weapon for self defense on a boat?"

You're sitting in a quiet anchorage when all of a sudden the boat is swarmed by zombies and pirates looking for rum. Your trusty 50 caliber machine gun is unfortunately disassembled and safely hidden out of sight from the gummit, laying under a foot of greasy black water in the bilge. All you have is your plastic orange flare gun, and six outdated 12 gauge red flares. With a glimmer of hope, you chamber a red flare. The trigger is pulled, and you fire at point blank range at the nearest zombie. The flare bounces off the zombie, and falls on the deck.

You, the zombies, and the pirates all stop at once blinded by  the ball of red light until in just seconds it burns through the deck and falls into the bilge water. The ensuing chemical reaction blows you backward off the boat now completely devoid of any eyebrows. Swimming away you try to keep your head real low to avoid your 50 cal ammunition that's now randomly hurling exploding bullets in all directions caused by the conflagration. A zombie near you tries to give you "the finger" as it flounders in the water but it falls off.

Two weeks later, you take a brown sharpie, and draw on eyebrows in preparation for the hearing. It seems that 400 gallons of diesel washed up on Longboat Key's shoreline, and the 50 caliber machine gun was found when the Coast Guard raised the boat. The Paradise Condo Association is upset about the bullet holes in the building's stucco, and a resident is claiming her Sphynx cat became so scared all of its hair fell out. There's even a zombie that's missing a finger and wearing a cheap suit who wants to testify. 

If you search around very few people have ever successfully used flare guns for defensive purposes. Mostly for those who have tried it, the end results tend to follow Murphy's laws of unintended circumstances. In the end, despite what you see in movies, it's a very poor choice for a weapon, especially on a boat full of fuel. It is however a great option for emergency distress signaling. 

The primary ingredients in a flare are black powder used to propel the flare to altitude, and Magnesium which provides the light. We will pause here for a moment to just consider this metal.

The property that makes magnesium good for flares is its very high burning temperature, of up to about 5600 F producing a bright light. The down side of magnesium is it's difficult to extinguish when burning. Throwing water on it makes the problem much worse. Not only does the water immediately turn to steam, but then the steam reacts with the burning magnesium creating hydrogen gas. Things instantly go from bad to much worse. Your typical small B & C boat fire extinguisher won't help here either. Only a class D fire extinguisher can put out a magnesium fire, and it should be a large one.

Other chemicals added to distress flares are various forms of strontium, and a oxidizer to help it burn. This creates the cheery red color.

I'm not going to belabor the point, but all recreational boats over 16' operating in coastal waters must carry USCG approved day and night visual distress signals. Manually powered boats, and open sailboats under 26' are excluded.

These can be pyrotechnic devices, or as simple as a distress flag, and an electric light that blinks SOS in morse code, as if anybody in this iPhone age actually remembers what this is. In the end three non-expired USCG approved red hand held flares meets the test for most boaters. Beyond that the prudent captain can make further decisions based on how and where they boat.

A couple pieces of advice. RTFD (Read the directions first) before you need to use them. Light and hold hand held flares over the water on the downwind side of the boat at an angle that won't let it drip hot stuff on your hands. Remember this stuff burns pretty hot. Shoot all aerial flares down wind, and not over land or other boats. Don't ever point a flare gun at your groin, or at anyone else even if you're joking.

Lastly check the expiration dates, and properly dispose of expired flares. By that I mean you can't take a bottle of rum and a bunch of expired red flares and fire them off in the bay with your buddies. It's illegal. The good news is you can do this with white flares, although I wouldn't have the rum on the boat when you're blasting away in these paranoid times. 

For those who would feel emasculated by using a cute feminine looking orange plastic flare gun, there are other options such as the manly B&D ExD 37mm Extreme Duty Top Break Launcher.

As scary as it looks it's legal, just as long as you only have 37mm flares on the boat. It can shoot a lot of other things too, but if that other ammunition is found on board it automatically becomes a weapon. I understand that Magnifico Yachts is giving one to each buyer of their new 2000 hp Phallic Fifty go fast boat as a buyer incentive. If you have one one of these on board, I would tell the USCG in advance of any inspections so they don't get too excited when they find it.

The photo of the 37mm launcher is from Wikipedia, and taken by user incitatus.
The small burning flare photo is from Wikipedia user Dvortygirl.
The flare gun photo is from Wikipedia by user MMX

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